Archive for the ‘Fox’ Bar and Restaurant Review’ Category

ADDRESS: 2 Appolonia Hirscher St. BRASOV,
Tel:  0268 472 278
www.kellersteakhouse.ro

This week we are traveling to Brasov. It is in winter that many of the cozy bars and restaurants in the town really come into their own. The main purpose of a trip at this time of year however is to ski, snow conditions permitting. However I do feel that, even when the snow is good, my talents are better suited to apres ski.
A restaurant I visit without fail on every trip to Brasov  is the Keller Steak House in Apollonia Hirscher St., one of the small streets off the main square. From the street, the restaurant would appear quite small with only four tables visible from outside  on the ground floor. However, the main seating area is downstairs, where there is a warm and cozy atmosphere kept alive by an exposed red brick wall.
The menu is wide and various and will suit all tastes, but it is the steak for which to go, as it is truly excellent.

There are two sources for this splendid beef. As well as some of the very finest Romanian beef coming from a private farm in Transilvanyia, there is beef imported from Argentina. The 21 -day aged Black Angus which is organically certified is fabulous!
Keller offer three cuts of beef, Striploin, T-Bone and Rib Eye, all in 300 or 400 gram steaks. 300 grams is enough for most mortals, I have to say. There is a choice of side dishes and sauces to complete your meal, all home-made and very good. I have tried them all.
My personal recommendation is the “Keller Sauce”, the house special which is made with red wine. Also a point to note is the consistently high standard of service and the good attention to detail. Red wines are always decanted and served in flamboyantly over sized quality glass ware, which is a real treat. So, on a visit to Brasov whether it be for winter sports or just passing through town don’t miss the  Keller Steak House.

Richard Fox and City Compass have started a series of wine tasting events- check out upcoming events on www.citycompass.ro and in this newsletter.

ADDRESS: 2 Stefan Dumitru St., Old Tow

This restaurant is named after Sergiu Malagamba, the Moldovan Jazz drummer from the 1940′s and if Malagamba were still alive, I feel he would be proud to lend his name to this new establishment.
Located in Lipcani on Stefan Dumitru St., this place is nicely tucked away off the main thoroughfare. Since  opening in March 2010, Irish restaurateur John McCarthy has managed to create a warm and friendly environment in this comfortable 50-seater restaurant where his team give service with a smile. Whilst having a leisurely lunch there recently, I couldn’t help noticing the clientele passing through. A high proportion of the customers were obviously regulars and well known to the staff. This is always a good sign and the very best of recommendations. It recognizes the quality of the service and the food and the appropriate pricing.
European with a leaning towards Italian is the best way to describe the menu. The pasta is excellent, cooked al dente and served with one of a wide range of delicious home made sauces. In particular the truffle sauce is winner!   Another personal favorite is the steak with pepper sauce, the beef coming from Romania.
The wine list is extensive with a choice of 26 labels, Romanian wines plus others from around the world, Alsace to New Zealand to Argentina. The house wines by the glass are very good, recommended for lunch time when a bottle may be a little too much.
The décor is simple inside, modern and clean with solid dark wooden tables and very comfortable arm chairs. On the walls there are interesting references to Malagamba.  At the back of the restaurant there is a private function room.  This would be an excellent space for a dinner party for 20 people.
As you may gather from these words I like Malagamba and look forward to joining the band of regulars.
Opening times: Midday until Midnight everyday

ADDRESS: 17 General Eremia Grigorescu St.
PHONE: +4 021 211.22.72
WEB: www.shiftpub.ro

Shift opened its doors in the summer of 2010 tucked away in General Eremia Grigorescu St. just behind Bulevadul Dacia, in that area of Bucharest that makes you feel as though you could be in Paris or Buenos Aires. This bar and restaurant is housed in a delightful old three-storey house which dates back to the early 1900′s. It has a simple and uncomplicated interior design which highlights the original features of the house, wooden floors and furnished with tables and chairs that compliment.
Outside there is a terrace which is protected from the road by tall cast iron railings to give the feeling of seclusion and privacy. Inside the ground floor, the bar area has an open plan space seating around 50 people. On the first floor there are two main rooms divided by an adjoining passage way, with a small snug up in the roof. Here there is a low wooden bench seating covered in bright selection of scatter cushions, which would be a great area to reserve if you were looking to have a party with around 20 friends.

A very good feature of Shift is the continuity of the bar and restaurant areas  making every table available for eating or just drinking. The photos on the website give a good impression of the interior space. The menu is very comprehensive offering a wide range of Western cuisine and as well as other interesting dishes. I started with home made mushroom soup, as good as my mother’s. The main course was an excellent piece of beef served in a cheese sauce, certainly different and maybe controversial but which worked very well.
We were a table of four and were all very happy with our choices. The wine list has an excellent selection of Romanian top wines all priced very honestly. We disposed of two bottles of the Cuvee Charlotte by Terra Romana, which complimented the food very well. The only oversight in the wine department was the glassware: not up to the quality of the wine. The standard of service was excellent, friendly, welcoming and prompt with both food and drink.
Shift is now a favorite of mine and I am keen to try more of their interesting menu. The spicy beef is next on my list!

Opening Hours:
Sunday to Thursday           12 noon until 2am, kitchen until 11pm
Friday and Saturday           12 noon until 4am, kitchen until midnight

Champagne!

As we are about to enter the party season, we are looking at the greatest party drink of them all – Champagne! It is very interesting how people’s perception of the French fizz has changed over the past 30 years. Once it was considered something only for special occasions like Christmas, birthdays and weddings. The reason for the change in attitude is that Champagne prices have barely increased in recent years, whereas increased wealth makes it relatively more affordable.
There is so much more to Champagne than the fact it is a fabulous drink. It has a whole mystique surrounding it, and it’s unique method of production, which has now been copied the world over in ”Method Champenois”, was originally invented by a Monk!
The absolute attention to detail of the Champagne maker maintains this art and the pursuit of quality. The Champenois have been very vigilant in protecting their product and its name. If it does not come from the Champagne region, then it is not Champagne. For example, Champagne will never be found made under licence in China!
This ethos runs throughout the whole district regardless of the price of the bottle. The real factors that affect the price tag are the quality of the fruit, the length of aging and to an extent, the brand name. The method however remains the same throughout.
For those of you who travel regularly, I would suggest stocking up outside of Romania, as local prices are very high for reasons I can only put down to excessive margins. It is not a question of duty. Ironically the cheapest place to buy Champagne in the EU, especially on the big brands, is in the UK! The UK is a very large Champagne consuming nation and all the Champagne houses are vying for market share. Christmas is when the war really starts, so now is a great time to shop.
What are you drinking this Christmas? Our cellar is now very well stocked with Taittinger which is a great favorite of mine. On a visit to the UK this week I was lucky enough to time my arrival with the first of the Christmas price wars in one of the large supermarket chains. Half price on 4 of the major brands, one of which was Taittinger, means we are now ready for the party. I’m really looking forward to Christmas this year!

Kumar’s Agra Palace
Address: Pipera – Tunari nr 47
Phone: +4 021 350 3114
Web: www.agrapalace.ro

This week we have been researching a British institution, the Indian Curry! Those raised or who have spent time in the UK will know how popular and influential this spicy Asian cuisine has become up and down the land. From a personal point of view, Indian food is something I never get tired of, so I am always in search of a good curry. In my younger days it was often associated with the perfect way to finish off a big Saturday night on the town. When the pubs closed at 11pm it was the chance to get another beer and eat great food.

When I first arrived in Bucharest, high on the priority list was to find a good curry house. After vigorous research in those early days I was beginning to lose hope.  Several very average experiences did not live up to my very high expectations. Then, by chance, perhaps even by the Grace of God,  one night I drove past Mr. Kumar’s Agra Palace in Pipera. At the time I made a mental note and thought this must be tried at some future date. Several weeks later, heading back into Bucharest at around 11pm, I decided to detour through Pipera just on the off chance the Palace was open.

As we approached the front door, it was opened and there was Mr. Kumar, dressed in his chef ‘s whites and a chef’s hat that was so tall it was hitting the top of the door frame.
I knew I had found my Indian restaurant Shangri-la in Bucharest. The location is great. If you happen to live in Pipera; otherwise it’s a drive or a cab ride from town but it’s absolutely worth the trip.
The restaurant is in a converted modern house divided into 3 floors, totally non smoking on the ground, smoking on the first floor and a very comfortable lounge on the top. There are also private rooms which can be booked for larger groups.

The restaurant also offers take away food and free delivery on orders over a certain minimum cost. Give them a call to see if they will deliver in your area.
The bench mark for an Indian restaurant in the UK has to be Brick Lane in London E1.  There are so many curry houses, somewhere in the region of 50 on the same street, that they are too numerous to count. The standards there are very high due to the intense competition but Mr. Kumar would compete with the best of them!

So in summary, if you like Indian food, or would like to give it a try, then do visit Mr. Kumar’s Agra Palace –It is excellent.

Address: 70-72 Calea Floreasca
Phone: 0752148400
Web: www.fittocafe.ro

The Fitto Cafe is on Calea Floreasca at the corner of Ion Muntenescu St. A very modern design with lime green covers on stainless steel chairs, dark wooden table and funky lamp shades gives it a very clean fresh feel.
The friend who recommended this bar to me said you must order the Penne with Salmon! I did as instructed and also ordered one of the freshly squeezed juices to go with it. Both were excellent. After that I went a little beyond my original instruction and ordered the Chocolate Mousse. I couldn’t resist it.

My benchmark for Chocolate Mousse is the mother in law, and I have to say for now her crown is safe, but Fitto came a close run second.
This Cafe, with its relaxed atmosphere, makes a great place for breakfast. It is perfect for those weekend days when you have time to read the paper or just sit and chat.
The selection of breakfast items includes pasta, salads, sandwiches and desserts with a wide range of coffees and those freshly squeezed juices.
They have a terrace on the Calea Floreasca side which catches the afternoon sun, making it an ideal place to catch the last of the sun’s rays during the afternoon tea time.
Open from 8.30am until midnight, the daily serving of an all-day menu makes this a great find, and remember, Penne with Salmon (Chocolate Mousse optional!)

Address: Str. George Calinescu 4A-Dorobanti area
Phone: 021 231 27 95
Web: www.whitehorse.ro

The White Horse is a very traditional style British pub in Dorobanti which started in 1997, one of the originals on the night life scene in Bucharest. As you walk in off the street past the red telephone box you enter the ground floor bar area which has a very solid dark wooden, island bar design in the middle of the floor. This is surrounded by bar stools, so suits those, perhaps especially Brits, who like to do their drinking and chatting at the bar, and with a dart board in the corner this pub is arguably the closest thing you will find to a British pub in town. They have a large pull down projector scene in the back area behind the bar which is used to show sports, mainly football. On the first floor there is an 80 seats-restaurant split into 2 separate sections for smokers and non smokers. The menu offers a wide selection of grilled meats, seafood and salads, no pizza/pasta, a refreshing change!

The prawns were excellent.  Another floor above the restaurant on the top of the building is a terrace, which at the moment is closed but which should reopen soon.The part of the White Horse I like best though has to be the ground floor bar, it feels very familiar, they offer Guinness, Leffe, Carlsberg, Tuborg, Becks and Stella on draught. You would say to yourself nothing exceptional in that, and you would be right, but you have to meet Nicolete Tanasie. Nicolete is a bartender of 3 years with the White Horse and this week won a prize awarded by Stella Artois as ‘Stella Draught Master’ for Romania and is going to compete in the grand final in London at the end of October. There is a lot more to pouring a Stella than most of us have imagined. The ’9 steps’, google it to find out more! After I learnt that, I have to say the beer somehow tasted better. Pay Nicolete a visit and try yourself. All in all I do like the White Horse and it comes into its own as a night time venue as it gives that cosy pub feel ing. Of which I’m sure many still miss and go in search of. Open daily from 11am until late.

Address: Piata Rosetti Nr 5
Phone: 0730 534 373
Web: www.legere.ro

Legere is a Cafe bar situated in Piata Rosetti just 2 minutes walk from Piata Universitatii, opened in May of this year by 4 local photographers in the fantastic old building which is connected to the Hotel Banat. The bar occupies a section of the ground floor with the old frontage still in tact.

The interior of the bar has a feel of the arts with posters on the walls and bouchers advertising theatre and events. During the week they have themed evenings, anything from a gathering of photographers to 70′s rock nights, check out their Facebook page Legere Cafe to see what’s coming up. They are also very open to requests so if you want a night taylor-made to your needs give a call as this is an ideal venue for a party. The floor space is good for numbers up to around 60.

The bar interior was created by Valeriu Virlan, who designed the now very well known Van Gogh Bar and cafe. The unique feature in the design at Legere is the long extension to the bar top, extending well beyond the needs of the bar tender and becoming a place for the drinker to sit or lean whilst enjoying the atmosphere.

The offering at the moment is drinks only but they are developing a food menu which will be coming soon. The drinks list consists of draught and bottled beers, a range of cocktails, and home made wines which have to be tried!
The bar is open from 9am week days and from midday on Saturday and Sunday, until the last man standing every night. Great place for a coffee during the day as the bar offers free WiFi and power points to plug in at every table.

In summary, Legere has a very open and friendly environment, a good place to stop for a coffee during the day or party at night. Do check out the events page as they offer events not found elsewhere.

(behind Carturesti Bookshop)
Address: Str. Pictor Arthur nr. 13-15
Phone:  021 317 34 59
E-mail: ionescu.stelian@gmail.com

Gradina Verona is a garden cafe bar situated at the back the Carturesti Book Store, 2 minutes walk from Piata Romana in the direction of Piata Universitatii.   The entrance is on Pictor Arthur Verona.
The garden bar is a total escape from the busy surrounding streets of down town Bucharest . The large outdoor area has mature trees with overhanging branches, giving shade from the sun. It is decked out with a mixture of different wooden furnishings.

This a great place to have lunch or a drink on a warm afternoon and read a few chapters of the book bought from next door. There is also a small play area for children to enjoy.
The food offering is a simple selection of salads, sandwiches, pasta, casserole  with deserts of very high quality.  The presentation is attractive. There are two beers, Becks and Leffe Blonde, available on tap, served well chilled, in addition to a large selection of bottled beer.
There is a good selection of Romanian and imported wines, and an interesting range of cocktails both alcoholic and non alcoholic.
This garden bar can be the perfect place to spend an afternoon or evening on a hot day. It is open from April until the end of October from 10am until midnight daily.

As summer is in full swing. Many of the expat community are away holidaying somewhere outside of Romania, certainly a good time to escape Bucharest as the humidity rises.

Travelling to other parts of Europe and the World it’s great to experience the taste of the local drinks in their home environment accompanied by the local food.  When you try to bring some of that 4 Euro a bottle Rose back from the Cote d’Azur to recreate the same moment in the garden at home, it doesn’t quite work. On a recent golfing trip to the UK with a group of Romanians, the bottle of Palinca one of the Romanian team members had in the golf bag didn’t quite hit the spot. It is much superior when consumed at home. From a personal point of view, drinking Ricard with the French in-laws is a daily ritual not to be missed.  It is greatly enjoyed, often in large amounts, whereas the bottle in the drinks cabinet at home never gets a look in.

Travelling back to UK in the summer, Pimms No1 is  a fabulous drink on a balmy summers day in Blighty.  Of course it may require some imagination whilst using expressions such as ‘balmy summers day’ and ‘Blighty’ in the same sentence, but those who have tasted will appreciate the sentiment. This summer a personal stash of the gin based No1 will be imported back to Bucharest……anyone for a party…… anyone for Pimms!

Another great drink and one under rated or even disregarded by many and only ever drunk locally, is Sherry. It is a fabulous drink and there is nothing better then sitting by the water front in Jerez, eating the local Sardines and sampling the Sherry.

So wherever you are this summer, enjoy the local fair, as it doesn’t always taste the same at home.